Fully escorted tour with
Morrison Polkinghorne and Robert Carmack.
July 24 – August 3 2025
Cambodia is where we lived for almost a decade, owned and ran Bric-à-Brac, an award winning boutique hotel (as pictured)
Southeast Asia is what we know best. This is a small-group tour hosted and organized by cookbook author Robert Carmack and artist/textile designer Morrison Polkinghorne. Delicious food, delightful company, decorative design and deluxe accommodation: That’s our Globetrotting Gourmet winning recipe since 2002!
A former French protectorate, after years of genocide and civil war, Cambodia is regaining its strength and stature. It’s winning a slew of awards for Best Destination in the world, and definitely the friendliest people in Asia. Join us on our epicurean tour of Cambodia, beginning in capital Phnom Penh, visiting remote ancient temples, viewing arts, weaving and crafts, plus the colonial architecture of Battambang, remote Banteay Chhmar and Preah Vihear, and famed Angkor Wat in Siem Reap. Plus much more…
“Our heart felt gratitude goes to Morrison and Robert for making our trip to Cambodia truly unforgettable.
Your warmth and hospitality as hosts, combined with your insightful guidance as tour guides, turned our journey into-am extraordinary adventure.
From exploring ancient temples to immersing ourselves into the vibrant culture, every moment was enriched by your knowledge and enthusiasm.
Thank you for creating such wonderful memories with us!”
Day 1
Thursday 24 July
Arrive Phnom Penh
Welcome to Phnom Penh, once described as The Pearl of Asia. Today it’s a vibrant cosmopolitan city, despite its relatively small population of nearly 2 ½ million. Founded in the mid 15th century, Phnom Penh was built on the confluence of the Tone Sap, Bassac, Mekong rivers and tributaries. Originally named Chaktomuk for its “four faced” river crossroads, it later was named Penh’s Hill or Phnom Penh, after a lady Penh discovered images of the Lord Buddha and Lord Vishnu inside a floating tree. Lady Penh increased the height of the district’s nearby small hill, and constructed temples there to house these sacred relics. The main temple eventually became known as Wat Phnom Dau Penh, with the city’s name eventually shortened to Phnom Penh. This eventually became the country’s capital in the mid 19th century.
You will be met at the airport by a Globetrotting Gourmet representative and driven to our host hotel. Depending on arrival times, we will offer an optional dinner tonight.
Need extra nights? Just ask for pre- and post extension advice.
Day 2
Friday 25 July
Architectural Tour + lunch
Phnom Penh is considered an architectural gem, with both its colonial Deco and post ’53 independence Khmer Moderne architecture lauded. After breakfast tour its most important buildings by pedicab. Lunch is at the city’s finest eatery, set in a sumptuous colonial mansion. The menu is refined Khmer, but we’ve selected a few of little-known village specialties that are sure to excite the taste buds. Remaining afternoon free then regroup for sunset cruise.
Optional & On your own: visit the Tuol Slend prison, a school used by the Khmer Rouge to interrogate its citizens, or further afield the Killing Fields Both are highly recommended viewing, giving eyewitness testimony to the horrors of Khmer Rouge rule in Cambodia. As these are sobering experiences, we recommend viewing quietly in solitude, and not with a group. We can help you arrange a private remok/tuktuk or taxi to take you there (payable directly to the driver).
B/L/S
Day 3
Saturday 26 July
Penh’s Hill, Museum & Royal Palace
This morning, climb Penh’s Hill and get a brief historical introduction to the city, followed by the city’s domed Psar Thmei Central Market, a deco treat constructed in 1935. View local crafts and shopping street highlights. Nearby, we’ll stop for delicious grilled free-range chicken and typical rice luncheon near the market.
After lunch, visit the Cambodia’s National Museum, and the Royal Palace.
Although looted during the dark days of Khmer Rouge mis-rule, both are still treasure troves of unexpected delights. Most surprising are the museum’s collection of ancient Egyptian, Greek and Roman-influenced figurines and artifacts dating to the 6th century Pre-Angkorian civilizations — attesting to this region’s early trade routes.
Return to hotel to freshen up, then in the evening visit the night market and a nearby Cambodian grill eatery, one of our local faves. The seafood is freshly grilled, the beer cold and plentiful, and its outdoor setting convenient to the Night Market. Adventurous Khmer in a bustling setting. B/L/D
Day 4
Sunday 27 July
Today we drive to the colonial city of Battambang, second largest city in the kingdom, but much more like a big village in atmosphere and appearance.
Early lunch before leaving Phnom Penh at the city’s most bustling and best coffee shops to sample the national dish of bai sai chrout grilled pork on rice, and milky coffee or tea. Optional stop at Pursat to view marble carving plus brief introduction to the local pickled bamboo shoots and wild honey. Regroup for dinner.
B/L/D
Day 5
Monday 28 July
Walking tour of colonial Battambang, which was officially nominated for Unesco Heritage status for its French colonial buildings. Begin at the city’s recently renovated provincial museum highlighting ancient Khmer statues and artifacts from the region, then to the inspiring Naga snake statue forged from guns surrendered by the Khmer Rouge. From about 1908 until 1953 Cambodia was a French protectorate, but for nearly two centuries prior Battambang and most of Northwest Cambodia was under Thai tutelage. Surprisingly, you will discover that the rococo Governor’s Mansion is not French at all, rather built by Italian architects during the city’s Thai sovereignty. Be sure to note the myriad public murals around town, cementing contemporary Battambang’s art reputation.
Remaining afternoon free until group departure for Phare Ponleu Selpak circus, a non-profit arts school for nearly 1000 impoverished students. (There is a sister circus performance in Siem Reap, but without the attached school.)
Optional: In the afternoon join Morrison at Phare at a workshop where he teaches students art techniques. Or Free Time: visit the old teak homes in Wat Kor, or in town go on a gallery crawl to view contemporary art. The city has more artists per capita than any other. There is plenty to do in Battambang, or simply sit back and relax.
Day 6
Tuesday 29 July
This morning the group splits in two: bike tour for the energetic, or tuktuk for the rest of us. Meet for an optional espresso at Kinyei, whose name means ginger, and is a popular stop for both expats and locals. Then onto Battambang’s food culture in villages making rice sheets for spring rolls, a rice distillery, and khao lam, a local specialty of stuffed and grilled coconut rice in bamboo (it’s extremely labour intensive). Watch rice sheets made for spring rolls, a rice distillery, vist the Khmer “cheese” factory where artisans dry fish for prahok, Cambodia’s national flavoring and condiment. Time permitting take the Bamboo railway, a form of transport uniquely developed post Khmer Rouge to facilitate transport.
Then onto the famous Bat Caves of Phnom Sampov, located about 30 minutes out of town. It’s a veritable river of bats in the sky leaving their caves every evening. Return to hotel. As it’s our last night in Battambang dinner is organized at a very traditional Khmer restaurant by our former Bric-a-Brac staff; a unique chance to meet the locals. Expect a free flow of beer, soft drinks and customary snacks, and most of all lots of fun. B/S/D
Day 7
Wednesday 30 July
To Banteay Chhmar, Anlong Veng & Preah Virhear
Banteay Chhmar is one of the largest ancient Khmer temples in Cambodia, but little visited because of its isolation. Its massive wall friezes are extraordinary. (There are rumors a Thai politician absconded with two of them in the 1990s and they now grace his back garden in Bangkok.) There is a small French silk factory in the village, which we will also visit; prices here uniquely are cheaper than in the city and the quality superb. Time permitting, visit nearby Banteay Tuop, whose weathered towers have the distinction of retaining a few wooden ceiling planks still in situ. Lunch at a local eatery near the temple prepared by the village co-op, then continue driving alone the Khmer-Thai border to Preah Virhear and overnight.
B/L/D
Day 8
Friday 1 August
Preah Virhear, Kulen, Siem Reap
Morning drive to Preah Virhear. This is a masterpiece of ancient Khmer architecture: A massive tiered complex reached by 900 steps, perched precariously on an escarpment with the Cambodian plains below. Its location has been the cause of both wars and legal disputes with neighboring Thailand, and to this day, entry from Thailand is restricted, and often prohibited. (You will still find Khmer-rouge cannons on premises facing toward Thailand.) The site is exceptional for the quality of its architecture, which is adapted to the natural environment and the religious function of the originally Hindu temple, as well as for the exceptional quality of its carved stone ornamentation.
The naturally-fortified Kulen plateau was the first Khmer capital, followed by Roluos in the 9th century, then for a relatively short 20 year term in Koh Ker. It’s believed Koh Ker was abandoned not only because of drought, but also as its founding king was considered an usurper to the throne. Conversely, too much water — the annual flooding of Tonle Sap — caused Roluos’ later abandonment. By the mid 10th century, the capital moved to Angkor.
Onward to Beng Melea, the former referred by Lonely Planet as “exploring this titanic of temples is Angkor’s ultimate Indiana Jones experience.”
Because of time restrictions, only one temple is included this afternoon. This area is both architecturally and historically significant. After a long day’s trekking, we’ve left the evening free.
B/L
Day 9
Friday 2 August
Angkor Wat, Bayon, NGO Lunch
This morning we’ll have a break from temples: Visit Siem Reap’s Old Market to explain local foodstuffs, followed by a meal at a non-profit cooking school cum restaurant. In the afternoon the jewel in the crown: Angkor Wat.
What more can we say about the vast spectacle of Angkor Wat, except that it is truly an awe-inspiring, breathtaking experience. This is the largest temple in the world, as tall as Notre Dame cathedral, and its stone volume equals Cheops’ Great Pyramid in Egypt. Uniquely, it faces West (where our group will exit, against the tides of tourists), and was constructed in the 12th century. (Its symmetrical towers are stylised on the modern Cambodian flag.) Conceived by Suryavarman II, Angkor Wat took an estimated 30 years to build, and is debatably a funeral temple for the king. Intricate bas reliefs surround its four sides, each telling a story. The most celebrated of these is the “Churning of the Ocean of Milk” on its east wing. Note we will not climb the highest third tower, due to wearing of the stones from over-tourism.
Afterwards, sunset on the temples. Surprisingly, the best views are from below, not atop, with the golden rays hitting the temples. Dinner is at a popular Khmer restaurant where we will taste a wide range of grilled meats.
B/L/D
Day 10
Saturday 3 August
After breakfast, visit the ancient walled city of Angkor Thom, literally “Great City.” Built in the 12th century by Jayavarman VII, the first sight of Angkor Thom complex is its magnificent South Gate. All five gates are similar, but the south gate has been extensively restored, and the most impressive. To give you a contrast, we also visit Angkor Thom’s West gate, seldom visited and until recently largely overgrown. It still retains its original paving stones, but most heads are missing. Central to Angkor Thom is Bayon, a state temple built between the late 12-13th centuries. This is certainly one of the most impressive edifices in all of Angkor, and one which you will recognize from its giant heads. Our guide will help translate the reliefs depicting everyday life and food gathering. Visit the Terrace of Elephants, triumphal entry point of processions to the ancient Khmer kings.
After, visit the Terrace of the Leper King with detailed carvings winding along a narrow passage way that leads to the Baphuon pools. Remaining afternoon free to explore at your leisure. Wander through the Old Market, indulge in a spa, or hire a tuk tuk to return for a few more hours of temple viewing on your own: your temple pass is valid all day and tomorrow.
B/D
This is our final night together in Cambodia, so we’ve organized a very special dinner, a multi-course degustation at what we consider the kingdom’s finest food.
Day 11
Sunday 3 August
Tour ends today.
After breakfast, we include private transfers back to the airport. For those wishing to extend their stay in Siem Reap, ask us for special hotel rates and additional services. BONUS: Your 3-day Angkor entry ticket is still valid today
Welcome to the Kingdom of Cambodia, home of the ancient and glorious Khmer kingdom centered around Siem Reap. A former French protectorate, this land is now regaining its strength and stature, and winning awards for Best Destination in the world, plus the friendliest people in Asia. Join us on our gourmet circle tour of Cambodia, beginning in capital Phnom Penh, visiting remote ancient temples, viewing weaving and crafts, including the Unesco-heritage colonial city of Battambang, and Angkor Wat.
Small group tours hosted and organized by cookbook author Robert Carmack, and textile designer Morrison Polkinghorne. Cambodia is where we live, and Southeast Asia is what we know best. Delicious food, delightful company, decorative design and deluxe accommodation: That’s our Globetrotting Gourmet winning recipe.
GETTING THERE:
Cambodia hosts numerous international carriers with direct routes to and from the national capital Phnom Penh; plus to Siem Reap, home of the famed Angkor temples. Siem Reap has more flights and services more carriers, but airplanes are restricted in size to prevent endangering the temples; Phnom Penh allows bigger planes. The two cities Phnom Penh (PNH) and Siem Reap (REP) are common routed, so many airlines allow arrival into PNH and departure from REP without penalty.
International: Fly from Thailand on Bangkok Air (winner: Skytrax Best Boutique Asian Airline); Thai Smile and Cambodia Angkor Airlines from Bkk; Air Asia from Don Mueang/Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur; Fly from Laos and Vietnam on Vietnam Air & Lao Aviation; Silk Air and Singapore Airlines from Singapore; China Eastern from Nanging and various ports; China Southern from Guangzhou; Eva Air from Taipei; ANA and JAL from Japan, and carriers from Korea, just to name some of the most popular.
When arranging international flights for this tour, ensure your travel agent flies you into Phnom Penh, but out of Siem Reap. (If this is not possible, a domestic Siem Reap to Phnom flight may be required.)
NB: some carriers, especially discount carriers like Air Asia, do not allow international baggage transfers; in which case, you may need to physically collect your bags at an intermediary airport then check in a second time. (Bangkok Air is a notable exception.)
Domestic carriers such as Bassaka, Cambodia Angkor and Cambodia Bayon ply the Siem Reap to Phnom Penh route. There are also direct flights Siem Reap to Sihanoukville for those wishing to visit the Cambodian islands post tour. For those planning visits to Kampot and Kep, it is quicker to drive from Phnom Penh, or by the restored train line, which operates on weekends only (Fri, Sat & Sun).