Whether you call it yum cha, dim sum or even dim sim, this Cantonese morning and luncheon meal of tiny dumplings and treats liked braised chicken feet and carrot cake has become a world-wide institution. Typically served in small baskets from a steaming trolley wheeled through the dining room, diners seek their favourites. At the end, plates are counted and billed accordingly. Sydney’s Cabramatta suburb is perhaps best known for Vietnamese fare, but the southern hemisphere’s largest Cantonese dim sum is at Iron Chef, behind gambling machines and a club facade. Incongruously Sicilian owned, it packs in the Asian locals, serving some 15,000 meals weekly.