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| With new world production of black truffles soaring, stratospheric prices are heading back to worldly levels. At about $3000 a kilo/$1350 lb they’re still very expensive, but well worth sourcing. Yet, we’re concerned a whole generation has done without for too long, forgetting how to savor this earthly black gold. More troubling, ersatz truffle oil grew ubiquitously overpowering over the past two decades, while the real thing tastes subtle. |
| We were in Western Australia, just in time for the Mandurah Truffle season in Southern winter, tasting black fungi at its best. |
Our conclusion:
Buy fresh within scant days of cultivation, and use quickly. Wrap in paper towel, then store for no more than a week in a tightly fitting glass jar (not plastic) in the crisper drawer of a fridge. Moisture is the enemy, so change paper daily. If white mould appears, brush and rinse off, then pat dry again. |
| We adore truffles nested amongst eggs in the shell, as its aroma permeates to the yolk. After a couple days, eat the eggs scrambled, or better yet, as a thickened cream sauce on linguini. Best: insert thin slices under the skin of a chicken and roast with tarragon. |
| And what to do with leftover truffles? Chop and infuse in a good quality flaked sea salt; keep tightly lidded. Plunge into that special bottle of olive oil, and cork. Blend into a block of extra-fine butter, wrap and store for a couple weeks. Truffles also infuse well in honey (why would you?), mustard (yuk), and in any cream dish (delicious). Remember when producers infused it in bottled water? Sales plummeted, and rightly so. |
| Out of season, purchase canned truffles. Look for “premier cuisson” on the label – indicating premier, first-cooked status. Likewise, select winter truffles over weaker summer variety. |
| Mark your calendar for next year’s Mandourah Truffle season in July. Details www.mundaringtrufflefestival.com Until then, purchase on line. |
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