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 SOFITEL CENTARA GRAND |
Chatuchak BANGKOK |
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Our favourite Bangkok haunt is undergoing a face life. Admittedly an older property, the Sofitel Centara Grand is located conveniently near the weekend Chautuchak market, plus the city’s best food stalls at Aw Taw Kaw.
Also close to the city’s old airport, and surprisingly fast travel to the new one at Suvarnabhumi. But why do we like it so? it’s seven restaurants help, plus direct walk to the vast Central shopping plaza and department store, plus others nearby. Now this 5-star residence is really pulling out the plugs with a massive renovation. All rooms totally gutted, and re-designed from scratch. (We hear the popular shopping mall is soon to follow, as well.) |
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rave: june 2009 |
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For those not wishing to stay inner city, Bangkok’s Sofitel Central Plaza Hotel is a perfect location. |
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A short 15 minutes to the airport, almost across the street from the vast weekend Chatuchak flea market, and directly linked to a huge shopping market and Central department store, this place is convenient. As of August, you can catch the new subway from here, as well. Not only that, the hotel holds Bangkok’s record for the most expat chefs, each presiding over their own signature restaurants. We especially loved the antics of chef Alberto Bruni, who presides over arguably the city’s best Italian eatery, Don Giovani, or Gio’s for short. The hotels’ executive chef Vittorio Bertini harks from the same village in Liguria, although they didn’t really know each other until they met in Asia. Chef Bertini gives Alberto rare praise indeed, when he boasts, “If you awarded stars to Giovanni’s, you would need to give it 5 stars plus." At the hotel restaurant’s Vietnamese eatery, the chef trained in Hanoi at the famed Metropole hotel under Didier Corlou.Dynasty’s chef harks from Hong Kong, and on our last vistit he excelled in "flower clams" or geoduck at this always-full-for-lunch restaurant. The “neck” is sliced paper thin into ribbons, then steamed bunched like a flower, and accompanied with a soy and wine dipping sauce. But best of all, the hotel restaurants here really attract the locals, instead of farang tourists. |
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www.accorhotels-asia.com |
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rave: july 2007 |
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| AMARANTH |
Suvarnabhumi, BANGKOK |
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Although billing itself as an airport hotel, it’s a long 20 minute+ drive to terminal (brochures state only 10 minutes, but we timed it in early morning, non-rush hour traffic), and worse: only once an hour shuttle service. In reality, the only thing airport about this place is its excellent 24-hour restaurant. Amaranth hotel must do a lot more to compete with Novotel Suvarnabhumi, which now has airport walking access, and convenient free shuttle every 5 minutes or so. On the plus side, Amaranth brings much needed price competition. And food under its Thai-Texan expat chef is better than the Novotel, where staff literally use a commercial meat slicer at the buffet table. (We note however that exec chef Murray Patterson is now part of the Novotel line-up, so expect better things.) Part of the Best Western Prestige family, the Amaranth claims 4 stars, but in reality looks and feels like an up-market motel. The pool is great, but again, no match to Novotel. By the way, someone should tell check-in staff that breakfast buffet begins at 5 a.m. – not 6. The chef informs us that only wee hour check-outs need a boxed breakfast, but the front desk informs otherwise. No scales in the rooms – perhaps a blessing for tourists overindulging in Thai treats, but a nightmare if checking your stuffed bags for overweight. |
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www.amaranthhotel.com |
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rave: December 2010 |
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| SILQ |
Sukhumvit Soi 19, BANGKOK |
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As part of the trendy and successful Bed family, Silq is guaranteed a bright future – especially judging by its top ratings on internet blogs. But in our evaluation, it falls flat.
At an average of 30 sq metres, the rooms are small. Worse yet, air conditioning is ferociously directed at bed heads, so you’ll probably wake up with airplane-like dehydration. Fan begins at gale force, and high is like a hurricane; but turn it off, and the room is stifling within minutes. So if you fail to keep you plastic card key in the unit while out, you’ll return to sweltering tropical temperatures that don’t rapidly abate. Bathrooms are, well, beige, and little space to place toiletry bags. The shower is luxurious, but with a clumsy inward door. Bath towels are almost perfect: large, but not over thick, and super absorbent. Kudos to their cluey buyer.
On the plus side, under the keen direction of Canadian Esmond Wong, management, staff and room service all very attentive. Beds are great, pillows luxuriously soft, but why do all Bangkok boutique hotels these days think a down-filled duvet is appropriate for the tropics? It’s sweltering underneath – even considering the stormy air con here. Breakfast is light and modern, and one of the best for a small-sized hotel in Bangkok today, although coffee here tastes like a regression to the bad old days of acidic over-roasted Starbucks brewed American drip. And we miss the complimentary cappuccino. (At B100/$2.80 surcharge, it’s price is steep.) Internet is free in all rooms, and speed is great. Honestly, you’re paying a premium for the name here. We booked for 4 nights, and checked out after. |
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www.silqbkk.com |
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rave: August 2010 |
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| VIE |
Ratchathewi BANGKOK |
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Part of the expanding luxury boutique brand M, Vie opened its Thai doors in mid December, and we luxuriated in one of the best hotel beds we've slept in for years! Bathrooms extravagant, almost vulgarly large, with hefty plate glass doors that require a muscle Mary to swing. Rooms are HOT, as accommodation begins high on the 17th floor and above -- and which might explain why prestige neighbors have complained of the building's glare. Located on a thoroughfare within walking distance to Bangkok's shopping mecca, the hotel is conveniently links to the sky train. Its rooftop swimming pool is a marvel, although Alilia Ubud's glass partition to the jungle floor is probably a bit more daring than this outlook over Phayathai Rd. Although we were there during "soft opening" phase, breakfast was interminably slow, and expensive in-room wi-fi prompted us to check out after only one day. But we're eager to return, booking two more stays in the near future -- especially as the hotel's new GM assures us that internet pricing is being re-studied. |
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http://www.accorhotels.com/gb/hotel-6469-vie-hotel-bangkok/room.shtml |
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rave: march 2009 |
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| THE AMBASSADOR |
Sukhumvit Soi 11 BANGKOK |
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Also recently renovated is one of Bangkok’s oldest institutions, The Ambassador. With some 750 rooms tucked in three separate wings (including two towers), the place is mammoth. Located on Sukhumvit soi 11, its mega convenient (and near Bed Supper Club for anyone wanting to sup chef Paul Hutt’s fine dining menu while reclining on pillows over a lap tray). Recent renovations bring the property up to contemporary standards, and the rooms large, but the entry lobby difficult for taxis to find. New bathrooms are spartan white like a hospital, and internet rates hefty -- especially considering 2- and 3-star joints regularly provide in-room connections free these days. Best value are the suites, where hefty discounts now apply. The Ambassador is scheduled to become an Accor property later this year, so expect a new Mercure or Novotel moniker soon. |
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www.amtel.co.th |
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rave: june 2009 |
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| CHAOPHAYA PARK HOTEL |
Dindaeng BANGKOK |
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In December Robert & Morrison stayed at Bangkok's Chaophaya Park hotel. We loved its adjoining spa facilities -- large enough to cater to groups of 40 or more at a time with great Thai massage -- and we were especially impressed with the hotel's Green Initiative. Vacant land near the adjoining golf driving range is now grows organic vegetables for the hotel's five restaurants, with the remainder packaged and sold under the Park Organic Veggies label. There's also a mushroom nursery surrounded by herbaceous shrubs of kale, celery, cucumber, lettuce, spinach. The hotel offers free walking tours. |
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www.chaophyapark.com |
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rave: march 2009 |
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| UNICO GRAND SILOM |
Silom BANGKOK |
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Even better value are the 9th and 10th executive level floors of Unico Grande Silom hotel. Formerly the Tower Inn, this time warp from the 70s still hosts a roof top pool and beer garden, but skip all the other floors. The recently revamped deluxe rooms on these two levels (only) are luxuriously massive, with balcony and free internet and DVD players, to boot. Hate the miniscule bathrooms lacking exhaust fans, food is awful, and the down-market clientele has got to be seen to be believed. But minibar prices are cheap, and we consider it a favored haunt for it’s room size, price and location. |
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unicograndesilom.com |
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rave: june 2009 |
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| THE TIVOLI |
Sathorn BANGKOK |
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We couldn’t say no to free nights in Bangkok, so headed to the newly opened Tivoli in the city’s embassy area. A clean, modern property with friendly staff, its wide flat screen televisions make Siam@Siam miserly; likewise the swipe cards. But breakfast was indifferent, and we were up from bed constantly turning off and on the overpowering airconditioning. Here, a remote control would have worked well (which likewise lacks in Siam@Siam). Its location is in a labyrinth of back streets, and even local drivers get confused. But it's value for money – we see internet rates at just 2000 per night. Also within 10 minutes’ walking distance of Suan Lum night market. |
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www.thetivolihotelbangkok.com |
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rave: july 2008 |
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| SIAM @ SIAM |
Patumwan BANGKOK |
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With over a 96% occupancy since its mid ’07 opening, Bangkok’s Siam @Siam obviously is doing something right. This design-hotel demonstrates a demand away from the homogenous beige motifs so prevalent elsewhere. The lobby hosted a vintage Nissan Figaro when we last stayed, and its naked concrete and burnt russet/orange is a throwback to the 70s. But cutting edge it ain’t. Inconvenient swipe cards instead of newer touch cards are the norm – quite a nuisance in the lift – and room televisions are the square analog boxes phased out elsewhere. The hotel insultingly charges for ice to complement its expensive mini bar sales, and no choice of pillow comfort. On the plus side, the sheets were high count cotton percale. The room service menu is uninspiring – and a hamburger we ordered had absolutely no taste. Zero, zilch, nada. Worse, reservations needs to get its house in order, as we suffered the ignominy of no response after repeated emails and faxes. On the plus side, free internet. Location is uber central, near the National Stadium Skytrain, and great shopping. |
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www.siamatsiam.com |
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rave: july 2008 |
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| THE ORIENTAL |
BANGKOK |
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Bangkok's Oriental regularly tops the charts as the world's finest hotel. Consequently, we often schedule the Oriental river cruise dinner for our gala farewell to food tour guests. Credit for the hotel's 5-star plus reputation goes to Kurt Wachtveitl, the German-born general manager there. He just celebrated his 40th anniversary at the hotel, along with guest relations veteran Ankana Kalantananda, who has herself been at the hotel for 60 years. These are certainly records in an industry beset with staff turnover. Wachtveitl began his career at The Oriental at the tender age of 30, and was awarded a Lifetime Achievement award from his peers in '06.
“The inhabitants of great hotels are the most pampered creatures on earth," says Wachtveitl. "As a hotel manager you have no choice but to develop your staff. I am lucky that Thais have great potential for the hospitality industry because of their warmth and caring attitude. We are all looking forward to the future and to many productive years ahead.”
But Wachtveitl's taste for "developing staff" recently soured, when he accused rival lebua hotel (sic -- it's always spelled lower case) with poaching his best employees, as well as teams from other esteemed Bangkok hotels. Seems he was piqued over loosing many favored workers, only to have them slink back to their former employer months later, caps in hand, begging for their old jobs back. Front page headlines hit the Bangkok Post on our last day there, when lebua shot back with a defamation suit. But the lebua antics are likely to backfire: with people asking 1) why it has such high staff turnover rates, and 2) the source of lebua's seemingly unlimited budget. |
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www.mandarinoriental.com |
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rave: july 2008 |
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| GRAND MILLENNIUM |
BANGKOK |
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What makes a 5 star hotel? Great beds top our list, large bathrooms, certainly superior service, and fluent English speaking telephone operators. We also value a helpful concierge desk, ever ready to send us in the correct destination, as opposed to telling us where to go. Polite restaurant service, and speedy registration and check out also count. Which leads us to question why Bangkok’s Grand Millennium boasts a 5-star pedigree, as it doesn’t provide any of the above. What rankles are soiled carpets, spotted furniture, master light switches that don’t work, and smells.
Barely 1 ½ years old, but already looking worse for wear, its exterior architecture on Sukhumvit soi Asoke arcs majestically skyward. But indoors, illogically designed windows make cleaning a deadly (or, apparently impossible) affair. Everything looked cloudy from our room windows, and worse from the atrium. Moreover, the building’s open court design renders upper level floors stiffing hot. On the plus side, its steam and sauna facilities are top notch. We’d consider going back, but for only half price, and 3 1/2 stars . |
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www.millenniumhotels.com |
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rave: june 2009 |
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| NOVOTEL SUVANABHUMI |
Airport BANGKOK |
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Paying by the hour for a hotel room has many connotations, but for an airport hotel, it makes perfect sense. We've previously reviewed Bangkok airport's Novotel Suvarnabhumi LINK OF PREVIOUS WRITE UP. We loved it, but our pocket book flinched! Now, hot off the heels of November's airport blockade Novotel launches an hourly tariff, with a minimum of two hours for about US$75, then additional increments up to 6 hours. The hotel is a short 3-minute free shuttle to the airport, so couldn't be more convenient. Its restaurants are exceptional, as well -- no surprise, considering the many banquets hosted there by Thai Airways for its visiting big wigs. |
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rave: march 2009 |
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We finally had a chance to stay at Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi airport hotel, The Novotel, during our stay last month. While there's still no direct walking passageway between the airport and terminal, who needs it, with punctual van service every 5 minutes. The hotel is lush, boasts good restaurants -- the Thai chef has won international awards! -- and beds ultra spacious. Can't figure out the huge picture window exposing bedroom and bathroom, though. We originally thought the hotel was only for early morning depatures, but had so much fun here, we'll arrive early next time. |
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www.novotel.com |
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rave: may 2007 |
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| ARUN RESIDENCE |
Rattanakosin Island BANGKOK |
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We're reluctant to divulge a favored retreat -- especially when the property has only 4 rooms, and actually only one suitable for our purposes. Yet we can't rave enough about Bangkok's Arun Residence. There, at the end of a small soi off Maharat Rd, sits this small boutique property, transformed into a few small, simple rooms. Inexplicably, the stairway hosts some of the best views of the Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun directly facing. But at the top of level three sits our favorite, with a huge balcony overlooking both river and temple. We basked here over four days, but haven't been able to find a vacancy ever since. The in-house Deck by the River restaurant is also excellent -- and a quiet balcony reprieve from the hustle bustle of Bangkok. |
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www.arunresidence.com |
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rave: may 2007 |
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| S15 |
Sukhumvit BANGKOK |
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S15 is a trendy new Bangkok hostelry on busy shopping street Sukhumvit. Great location, and small rooms decorated in modern minimalism. We loved the free internet, but everything else left us cold, and we moved out after only one day. Why? If you advertise yourself as 4 and 5 star, and charge accordingly, the stay should be exceptional. It wasn't. |
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www.s15hotel.com |
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rave: Dec 2008 |
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| LEBUA |
Bangrak BANGKOK |
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Only slightly more pricey is the full service 5-star lebua at State Tower hotel on Silom Rd. Home to some of Bangkok's most pricey restaurants, from Sirocco, to Mezzaluna to Breeze, the property regularly runs special promotions while it undergoes yet another upgrade. Let's hope the next revamp allows you to step onto the balconies to experience some of the city's most exquisite views. |
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www.lebua.com |
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rave: may 2007 |
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| ALILA CHA AM |
Cha Am, 2.5 hr South of BANGKOK |
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On the Conde Naste Traveler Hot List, a few hours south of Bangkok. It’s the perfect pampered beach retreat away from it all, and we’re drooling over our next visit. Dramatic, minimalist architectural, garden features, positively excel. Rooms spaciously huge, reminding us why the 19th century had such gloriously high ceilings. Mega comfy beds. |
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www.alilahotels.com |
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rave: aug 2010 |
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