Cambodia Tour
Fully escorted small-group tour hosted by
Morrison Polkinghorne and Robert Carmack
1 – 11 July 2027
WELCOME TO THE KINGDOM OF CAMBODIA, HOME OF THE ANCIENT AND GLORIOUS KHMER EMPIRE & ANGKOR WAT
11 Days, 10 nights
1-11 July 2027
Cambodia is where we lived for almost a decade, owned and ran Bric-à-Brac, an award winning boutique hotel. Southeast Asia is what we know best.
This is a small-group tour hosted and organized by cookbook author Robert Carmack and artist/textile designer Morrison Polkinghorne. Delicious food, delightful company, decorative design and deluxe accommodation: That’s our Globetrotting Gourmet winning recipe since 2002!
A former French protectorate, after years of genocide and civil war Cambodia is regaining its strength and stature. It’s winning a slew of awards for Best Destination in the world, and among the friendliest people in Asia. Join us on our epicurean tour of Cambodia, beginning in capital Phnom Penh, visiting remote ancient temples, viewing arts, weaving and crafts, plus the colonial architecture of Battambang, remote Banteay Chhmar, and famed Angkor Wat in Siem Reap. Plus much more…
“Our heart felt gratitude goes to Morrison and Robert for making our trip to Cambodia truly unforgettable.
Your warmth and hospitality as hosts, combined with your insightful guidance as tour guides, turned our journey into-am extraordinary adventure.
From exploring ancient temples to immersing ourselves into the vibrant culture, every moment was enriched by your knowledge and enthusiasm.
Thank you for creating such wonderful memories with us!”
Day 1
Thursday 1 July
Arrive Phnom Penh
Welcome to Phnom Penh, once described as The Pearl of Asia. Today it’s a vibrant cosmopolitan city, despite its relatively small population of 2½ million. Founded in the mid 15th century, Phnom Penh is built on the confluence of the Tone Sap, Bassac, Mekong rivers and tributaries. Originally named Chaktomuk for its “four faced” river crossroads, it later was renamed Penh’s Hill or Phnom Penh, after a lady Penh discovered images of the Lord Buddha and Lord Vishnu inside a floating tree. Lady Penh increased the height of her district’s small hill, and constructed temples there to house these sacred relics. The main temple eventually became known as Wat Phnom Dau Penh, with the city’s name eventually shortened to Phnom Penh. This city became the kingdom’s capital in the mid 19th century.
You will be met at the airport by a Softel representative and driven to our host hotel.
Please contact Robert & Morrison after your hotel arrival to say hello.
Tonight no activities planned.
Need extra nights? Just ask for pre- and post extension advice.
Day 2
Friday 2 July
Colonial Phnom Penh + lunch
Hotel breakfasts are included on all days of the tour, on your own or join others from the group. This morning we’ve arranged an orientation brekkie at the hotel’s La Couple buffet restaurant, so please join our large table for introductions and breaking bread. Ask the receptionist for the Globetrotting Gourmet table.
All other days you have a choice of complimentary breakfast here or at the hotel’s Chinese eatery Fu Lu Zu, which is located just outside and down steps from the hotel’s portico.
Colonial Phnom Penh was lauded as the “Pearl of the Orient” and considered an historical gem, with both its Deco and post ’53 independence Khmer
Moderne architecture lauded. Today we tour its colonial heart by pedicab, followed by lunch featuring Khmer classic dishes at arguably the capital’s finest eatery; refined dining at its most elegant in a former colonial mansion..
Remaining afternoon and evening free to rest and recover after long flights, massage or perhaps mani pedis, or independently discovering Phnom Penh on your own: visit the Tuol Sleng prison, a school used by the Khmer Rouge to interrogate its citizens, or further afield the Killing Fields. Both are highly recommended viewing, giving eyewitness testimony to the horrors of Khmer Rouge rule in Cambodia. As these are sobering experiences, we recommend viewing quietly in solitude, and not with a group. Use the hotel concierge to arrange a private remok/tuktuk or taxi (with or without guide).
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Day 3
Saturday 3 July
Penh’s Hill, Deco Market, Museum & Royal Palace
This morning, climb Penh’s Hill and get a brief historical introduction to the city, followed by the city’s domed Psar Thmei Central Market, a deco pastiche constructed in 1935. View local crafts and shopping street highlights. Visit Cambodia’s National Museum: Although looted during the dark days of Khmer Rouge mis-rule, it’s a treasure trove of unexpected delights. Most surprising are the museum’s collection of ancient Egyptian, Greek and Roman-influenced figurines and artifacts dating to the 6th century Pre-Angkorian civilizations — attesting to this region’s early trade routes.
Our shared luncheon menu today samples selected specialties that are sure to excite the taste buds. After lunch and a brief break back to the hotel, then onto the Royal Palace. (Please refer to our dress code recommendations.) Finish the day with a sunset cruise on the Mekong.
Post cruise, walk down adjoining/nearby Sisowath Quai bordering the Mekong, as the street is closed to vehicles every Saturday and Sunday evenings 6-11 pm, turning into a lively 2 km thriving stretch full of food stalls, traditional performances, and smiling faces. Go with our guide, or discover on your own. (Be sure to ask advice on how to get a return tuktuk)
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Day 4
Sunday 4 July
Phnom Penh to Battambang
Today drive to the colonial city of Battambang, second largest city in the kingdom, but much more like a big village in atmosphere and appearance. Don’t fill up at the hotel breakfast, as we’ve scheduled an early lunch/snack before leaving Phnom Penh at the city’s most bustling and best coffee shops to taste the national dish of bai sai chrout grilled pork on rice, and milky coffee or tea. Stops enroute at Pursat to view marble carving. Regroup for a very special hotel dinner of Northwest Cambodian specialties at our hotel.
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Day 5
Monday 5 July
Start with an optional espresso at Kinyei, whose name means ginger, and is a popular stop for both expats and locals. Tour of colonial Battambang, which was officially nominated for Unesco Heritage status for its French colonial buildings, and recently awarded Unesco’s Creative Cities Network for its rich gastronomic heritage.
From about 1908 until 1953 Cambodia was a French protectorate, but for nearly two centuries prior Battambang and most of Northwest Cambodia was under Thai tutelage. Surprisingly, you will discover that the rococo Governor’s Mansion is not French at all, rather built by Italian architects during the city’s Thai sovereignty.
Our next stop is at the city’s deco central market Psar Nath/Thom to see how Khmers dailh shio, then walking down city laneways. Be sure to note the myriad public murals around town, cementing contemporary Battambang’s art reputation. Visit the recently renovated provincial museum highlighting ancient Khmer statues and artifacts from the region, then drive by the Governor’s mansion and see the inspiring Naga snake statue forged from guns surrendered by the Khmer Rouge. Return to hotel, or visit Battambang on your own.
Free Time: Go on a gallery crawl to view contemporary art. This city has more artists per capita than any other in the kingdom. Or visit the old teak homes in Wat Kor, nearby Bamboo Train, a form of transport uniquely developed post Khmer Rouge to facilitate transport (NB: be sure to take the older “original” bamboo train, as there is also a recently introduced modern route preferred by Khmer tourists, but less appreciated by foreign tourists.) There is plenty to do in Battambang and environs, or simply sit back and relax in this resort frequented by Angelia Jolie and family. (BTW Angelina is currently funding renovations of Battambang’s movie houses.)
Battambang last year was awarded culinary cultural recognition by Unesco:
“Apart from its vibrant culture, this recognition acknowledges Battambang’s local culinary delights, including nem (soft fish), prahok (fish paste), amok, kralan (sticky rice in bamboo tubes), papaya salad, kantuy hes (spicy mixed prahok) and teuk kroeung (vegetable dipping sauce) among dishes that hold a special place in the daily lives of the people of this province.”
Evening depart for Phare Ponleu Selpak, a non-profit arts school for nearly 1000 impoverished and at-risk students. We’ve arranged a tour there, plus unique cooking class and light dinner. Following, evening attendance at the school’s famous acrobatic circus (no animals). There is a sister circus performance in Siem Reap, but without the attached school.
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Morrison teaching art
techniques workshop Phare.
Day 6
Tuesday 6 July
Battambang, Meet Locals Dinner
Discover Battambang’s daily lifestyle by tuktuk led personally by its drivers: crafts and food culture, visiting villages making rice sheets for spring rolls, a rice distillery, and khao lam, a local specialty of stuffed and grilled coconut rice in bamboo (it’s extremely labour intensive), plus more. Of special note is the Khmer “cheese” factory where artisans dry fish for prahok, Cambodia’s national flavouring and condiment. Please share 3 or 4 pax per tuktuk.
As it’s our last night in Battambang we’ve organised both a cooking class cum dinner is at a very traditional Khmer restaurant by our former Bric-a-Brac staff; a unique chance to meet the locals. Expect, local foods, and most of all lots of fun and gentle ribaldry. French wine for sale independently, but water and beer included.
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Day 7
Wednesday 7 July
Battambang to Banteay Chhmar to Siem Reap
Banteay Chhmar is one of the largest ancient Khmer temples in Cambodia, but little visited because of its isolation. Its massive wall friezes are extraordinary. (There are rumours a Thai general/politician absconded with two of them in the 1990s to grace his back garden in Bangkok.) Lunch at a local near the temple prepared by the village co-op,
Soieries de Mekong is a small French silk factory in the village; prices here uniquely are cheaper than in the city and the quality superb, so budget accordingly. Time permitting, visit nearby Banteay Tuop, whose weathered towers have the distinction of retaining a few wooden ceiling planks still in situ. then continue to Siem Reap.
As this has been a long day, we have kept tonight free for personal exploration. Our hotel’s location is central in town, and there are numerous restaurants and upmarket bars (and some decidedly shady if that is your preference)! There’s also massage, facials, mani-pedis options abounding. Ask us for recommendations.
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Day 8
Thursday 8 July
Seam Reap, Water Blessing, Angkor Wat, Temples at Sunset
This morning we’ll have a break from temples, starting with a monk’s blessing welcoming us to the region. It will be conducted in a 500 year-old temple in town. Onto Siem Reap’s Old Market to explain local foodstuffs, buy trinkets and souvenirs, sample local snacks. Durian, the celebrated and pungent spiky fruit is reputed to “tast ike heaven and smell like hell.” Consequently we’ll stop at a large fruit shop to sample, plus taste fresh mangosteen, known as queen of the fruits. Both are banned in hotels, but for differing reasons: durian can stink an entire hall, while conversely, the sap on mangosteen stains permanently. Visit a local craft workshop. Lunch is at a hospitality training school that we’ve financially supported for years. (You are encouraged to order a bottle of wine, as this is the only chance its students learn how to use a cork screw.)
In the afternoon, the jewel in the crown: Angkor Wat. What more can one say about the vast spectacle of Angkor Wat, except that it is truly an awe-inspiring, breathtaking experience. This is the largest temple in the world, as tall as Notre
Dame cathedral, and its stone volume equals Cheops’ Great Pyramid in
Egypt. Uniquely, it faces West (where our group will exit, against the tide of tourists), and was constructed in the 12th century. (Its symmetrical towers are stylised on the modern Cambodian flag.) Conceived by Suryavarman II, Angkor Wat took an estimated 30 years to build, and is debatably a funeral temple for the king. Intricate bas reliefs surround its four sides, each telling a story. The most celebrated of these is the “Churning of the Ocean of Milk” on its east wing. Please do not climb to the highest third tower due to wearing of the stones from over-tourism.
Afterwards, sunset on the temples. Surprisingly, the best views are from below, not atop, with the golden rays hitting the temples. Evening free.
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Day 9
Friday 9 July
Traditionally the Angkor complex has been broken into two areas: The Small Circuit and the
Grand Circuit. The former focuses on the centrally-located temples like Angkor Wat and Bayon. The Grand Circuit consists of literally hundreds of other temples falling outside the four walls of the ancient city. Succinctly, the Small Circuit is for the main attractions and busier; Grand Circuit offers a more diverse selection of temples in a less crowded environment.
Coach to the ancient walled city of Angkor Thom, literally Great City, Built in the 12th century by Jayavarman VII, the rest sight of Angkor Thom complex is its magnificent South Gate. All five gates are similar, but the South Gate has been extensively restored and the most impressive. Central to Angkor Thom is Bayon, a state temple built between the late 12th and 13th centuries. This is certainly one of the most impressive edifices in all of Angkor, and one which you will recognise from its Giant heads. Our guide will help translate the reliefs depicting everyday life and food fathering, plus battles.
Drive by the Terrace of Elephants, which was where Khmer armies on return marched before the kings. Continue to massive Preah Khan, built in the 12th century, again by Jayavarman VII. Like famed Ta Prom of Tomb Raiders fame, Preah Khan has been largely maintained in situ with overgrown trees and ancient dilapidation. This temple is a true highlight, and afterwards stop briefly at the water-plank entrance to Neak Poan, a small temple located in the middle of North Baray, and surrounded by a massive lotus aquatic field. Of special interest is that the North Baray was recently refilled with water using ancient Khmer connections, and as a result neighbouring temples’ subsidence had stabilised.
Lunch at nearby Pradak Village, renowned for its numerous roast pig eateries along the road. We’ll also stop at a dessert specialist to view the making of a local delicacy palm fruit set in jellied agar agar.
Then on the way back to town, stop at 10th century Pre Rup, which is architecturally distinctive due to its use of bricks as opposed to stone.
Dinner is at a popular Khmer restaurant where we will taste a wide range of grilled meats. This eatery particularly appeals to upper middle class Khmer, and is a unique opportunity to taste foods not catered to a Western clientele. And best of all, the draft beer is only $1 a schooner, although a full wine list is also available.
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Day 10
Saturday 10 July
Floating Villages, gala dinner
Travel to the floating village of Chong Kneas on the Tonle Sap. There are three different floating village location choices, and we’ve chosen the best! Here catch a view of life on Cambodia’s most famous lake. Contrary to all laws of nature, the mighty Mekong annually flows backward into the Great Lake, increasing its size by some four times, and enriching the locals with a bounty of water.
Return via Parry’s gin distillery and explanation of local herbs used to flavour their elixirs. (There is a small store attached for those wishing to buy bottles.) Time permitting, stop briefly at a local 11th century temple, very different from the larger temples we’ve seen so far.
As this is our final full day in Siem Reap, the remaining afternoon is free for grabbing a tuktuk for personal exploration, shopping or pampering. Your three day temple pass is still valid today.
For our last night we have scheduled a formal 6-course Khmer dinner for you, created especially for us by Chef SAO Sopheak, first-prize winner of 2025 inaugural Private Chef World Cup at Village International de la Gastronomie in Paris, for his “coconut-lemongrass panna cotta with a passion fruit “egg.”
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Day 11
Sunday 11 July
Tour ends today
After breakfast, we include private transfers back to the airport. For those staying longer in Siem Reap at our host hotel we include your SAI airport transfers on your check out day. For those checking out after 12 noon today, late check-out is requested on a space available basis; a surcharge may incur.
Ask us about additional nights at our host hotels… We’ve got special rates exclusively for you.
For those returning to Phnom Penh, instead of flying home out of Siem Reap, ask us about private transport options, and view enroute the 900 year old Spean Praptos/Kampong Kdei Bridge, which is depicted on the 5000 riel note. Also stop at Sambor Prei Kuk, a pre-Angkorian temple complex dating to the late 6th and early 7th centuries.
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GETTING THERE:
Cambodia hosts numerous international carriers with direct routes to and from the national capital Phnom Penh and to Siem Reap, home of the famed Angkor temples. The two cities Phnom Penh (KTI) and Siem Reap (REP) are common routed, so many airlines allow arrival into PNH and departure from REP (or vice versa) without penalty.
International: Most popular transits are via Vietnam/HCM, Singapore/SIN, Malaysia/KUL, Thailand/BKK, plus further afield China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Japan, Korea.
When arranging international flights for this tour, ensure your travel agent flies you into Phnom Penh, but out of Siem Reap. If this is not possible, a domestic Siem Reap to Phnom land transit or flight may be required, which we can help organize. NB: we do not recommend Cambodian domestic to international connecting flights on the same day.
Some carriers, especially discount carriers like Air Asia, do not allow international baggage transfers; in which case, you may need to physically collect your bags at your intermediary airport then check in a second time. (Bangkok Air is a notable exception.)
Domestic carriers: There are also direct flights Siem Reap to Sihanoukville for those wishing to visit the Cambodian islands post tour. For those planning visits to Kampot and Kep, it is quicker to drive from Phnom Penh, or by the restored train line, the latter operating on weekends only (Fri, Sat & Sun).
Tour hosts since 2002
